First of all, Borneo is the third largest island in the world, and islands usually offer a high degree of endemism. That is, the species, including plants and animals, which tend to evolve over the millennia in the isolation of islands, are often found nowhere else on earth. So too, the Malaysian Peninsula harbors a number of endemic birds. While the rainforests of Southeast Asia are fast disappearing, falling to logging and clearing for oil palm plantations, there are a few pockets of untouched habitat remaining, and it was to those that we were heading.As it turned out, the second reason to make Malaysia a prime destination is its overall comfort and security, of which I had been assured before deciding to join this trip, but which I only began to realize when I reached Tanjung Aru. As we progressed further, I continued to find not only a warm welcome and a delight in service unknown, to me at least, in the Western world, but excellent food and top notch accommodations too. I never felt threatened by being in a largely Muslim country, though I was often fascinated by the varying degrees of “cover-up” the women adopted. People were cordial, most spoke at least some English, and in Sabah, especially, they were very eager and proud to share their beautiful parks and reserves with us.

I should really have titled this “A Bit of Borneo”, as we were only in the State of Sabah, one of two Malaysian states which comprise one third of the island of Borneo (the rest is Indonesian, plus the small but oh-so-oil-rich country of Brunei). Along with Singapore, they joined with the rest of the peninsular states to become the Malaysian Federation in 1963. Singapore later seceded. Most of the Malaysian states are headed by a hereditary ruler, a Sultan, and the country is nominally headed by a Paramount Ruler, which position is filled by 5 year rotation amongst the Sultans and other governors. There is a bicameral Parliament whose lower house is elected. Today’s total population is about 24 million, which includes a mix of Malays, Chinese, Indians, and indigenous tribes. Thus there is also a fair mix of religions, including Islam, Buddhist, Daoist, Hindu, Sikh and Christian, along with many languages. Malaysia has successfully transformed itself from a producer of raw materials into an emerging multi-sector economy, an economic growth driven largely by exports, especially in electronics. (For instance, Bill’s Hewlett-Packard Printer was made in Malaysia.) It appears to me that tourism, too, is a growth sector, as there are many attractive resorts and I observed Australians, Europeans, and many from the Middle East, the latter especially apparently enjoying the relative freedom of the Malaysian Muslims’ tolerance for less strict adherence to clothing and social constraints. The largest city is Kuala Lumpur, a modern, bustling metropolis with an excellent new airport, extensive shopping malls, and the world’s tallest buildings, the Petronas Towers. There is nothing “third world” about this city, and our hotel here was, again, thoroughly upscale, comfortable and with a spectacularly fine buffet. Even Malaysia’s more rural scenes often boast satellite dishes.

Our time in Sabah was spent at three especially birdy places, in addition to the lowland coastal areas where some special birds such as Blue-naped Parrots, Javan Pond Herons and Bornean Leafbirds were spotted. While still in Kota Kinabalu we toured a water village, which on Borneo especially, with flat coastal land at a premium, is a common housing option. Another day was spent in the Crocker Range National Park. Here a few hearty enthusiasts, myself included, of course, hiked down a steep-sided valley to see a Rafflesia in bloom. This genus of flower contains the world’s largest species, and though ours was diminutive at perhaps “only” 14" across, it was spectacular, and all the more so for being insect-eating, completely without stem or leaves, and taking 18 months to bloom, and then only for a few days! In the process of climbing back up the trail, I managed to collect my first 8 leeches, as I had foolishly failed to wear my special leech socks, and thereby I learned a few valuable lessons: leeches are really no big deal, they don’t really hurt, but as they inject a powerful anti-coagulant while attaching themselves, the bites do bleed rather dramatically! However, they either become sated and fall off before you find them, or you learn quickly how to remove and flick them off into the forest (preferably not, in a panic-stricken moment, onto one’s fellow hikers!) They don’t carry any diseases, and though the bites can itch for a long while, they really aren’t a problem once the bleeding stops. Most of all, however, from that day on I learned to wear faithfully my rusty-trusty, soon muddy and wrinkled, leech socks.

credit Timothy Ojile

The day before we headed for Mt. Kinabalu, at 13,428' the highest peak between the Himalayas and New Guinea, we were fortunate to have clear views across the lowland rice paddies to its remarkably jagged, young peaks. We were looking forward to the cooler climate at 5,000', and so it was as we arrived the next afternoon at our small hotel just outside the park entrance, but we also were swept up the hill in front of a nasty storm which proceeded pummel us with wind and torrential rains for the next 36 hours. While there were a few hours of relative dryness which enabled some excellent birding, it was a bit frustrating, and we were forced to retreat to our rooms and/or to some excellent meals and not-so-excellent wine. In a Muslim country it is fairly amazing to be able to purchase any alcohol at all, but we were able to buy wine by the bottle and beer was fairly readily available, though both were very expensive. Finally a sunny morning dawned and that day, especially, was filled with extraordinary birds, such as the Indigo Flycatcher, Golden-naped Barbet, and the Crimson-headed Partridge. Best of all, however, were some stunning views of a pair of glowing, emerald green Whitehead’s Broadbills, which seemed to rocket through the forest as we followed them down the trail, pausing just long enough for us to see them in all their glory. Unfortunately, the bad weather so constrained our time here that we weren’t able to climb a bit higher up the mountain, where some more highly range-limited birds and huge pitcher plants can be found. That was a disappointment, but I’ve always felt that one should, if the experience has been truly good, leave with reason to return...

Next up was a short flight to Sandakan, on Sabah’s east coast, and a quick tour of the moving memorial there to those who died on the Sandakan Death March, as well as a stop at the huge, new Chinese Temple, perched on a hilltop overlooking the town and expansive harbor. Of course, we managed to find a few birds along the way, before we headed up the Kinabatangan River by boat, to Sukau Rainforest Lodge. En route up-river, we spotted a herd of Bornean Pygmy Elephants, perhaps 30 or so, feeding along the banks, where we were able to nose our boat into shore to observe these delightful animals. These elephants have recently been discovered to be a unique species, not just a small version of the Asian Elephant, and thus are now protected and happily beginning to rebound a bit in numbers. Needless to say, it was an exciting stop along the way to our lodge! Though we arrived in a downpour (what’s a rainforest, after all?!), we were soon settled into our small but clean and comfortable rooms, with solar powered overhead fans helping to keep things coolish, and sarongs awaiting our attempts to “dress” for dinner, as is the custom here. It’s a neat trick learning how to fold and tuck these long, tubular “skirts” so that they don’t succumb to gravity at the wrong moment, but it was fun and festive and, with the help of a safety pin discreetly applied, I managed quite well.

credit Timothy OjileThis small but rich area of lowland riverine forest is best explored by boat, so we split into two groups and headed variously to an oxbow lake or up the small, tributary Menanggol River. These explorations yielded wonderful sightings of 6 species of hornbill in one day, the premiere species being the Rhinoceros Hornbill. At almost 4', this is one impressive bird! This fellow is an older bird, as evidenced by the extensive wrinkling in his casque (honest!). At the other end of the size spectrum, a White-fronted Falconet was a personal favorite, small but mighty. He feeds on large flying insects (again, an endearing quality!), and isn’t much bigger than a Sparrow. Other wonderful birds seen in this area were the Buffy Fish-owl, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, and Violet Cuckoo. Further superb mammal sightings included a pair of Short-clawed Otters romping and foraging along the banks of the river one morning, and a spectacular encounter with a gorgeous Leopard Cat, seen both from the side and head-on in our spotlight as it hunted amongst the mangroves. This seems to be the most commonly seen of the small Asian cats, though it amazes me that it hasn’t been hunted to extinction for its beautiful coat< of rainforests riverine lowland the in only found is species This look-alike! Durante Jimmy a Monkey, Proboscis was area this primate favorite>
credit Hermann StaengleWith super experiences such as these, I was reluctant to leave the Kinabatangan area, but we pressed on toward Danum Valley and the Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Though the long journey took us through endless palm oil plantations, we did pass through a band of rainforest near the caves, where we encountered our first Orang-utans. This translates, literally, to “man of the forest” - you can see why! With great excitement, we all piled out of the bus to enjoy views of a pregnant female feeding peacefully in the trees by our single track road, and I was especially thrilled that this was a truly wild animal, not one stuck in a rehabilitation center and tossed bits of food by the tourist crowds. Later on we saw a very big male walking across the road in front of us - another special encounterEn route to Danum Valley, we stopped at the Gomantong Caves, which proved to be my least favorite venue, but also fascinating, in its own unique way. These towering limestone caves are home to perhaps a million swiftlets and even more Wrinkle-lipped Bats (alas, I did not discern the wrinkled lips!). < our beams performance memorable mid-air, insect large snatch position sprang Civet, Malayan Cat, Leopard another views rewarded Thus in. way mammals nocturnal seeing possibilities maximize order night, at late arrive scheduled We world. oldest some rainforest, untouched completely tract lies heart its logged, sustainably importantly, most and, selectively Sabah, state 12% comprising Area Conservation places, special world’s surely It Valley? Danum describe>Black and Crimson Broadbill on the railing of my duplex cabin, surely a great way to start! Alas, I blew the photo in my excitement, but do have a look at this to get a view of this super bird (yes, the bill really is that improbable aqua blue!). Pheasant Jungles (based on explorations 1909-1911): My second day in Malaysia was almost spoiled by an attempt to eat a durian. Eating durian, or, as in my case, essaying to do so, is an experience not soon lost to memory. Its achievements must be productive of a noticeable growth of ego. I often think how I should enjoy being able casually to boast, "I have eaten durians in the East," or, "This tastes as good as durian." The durian has a powerful personality. It is large and green, not unlike a breadfruit, and it is covered with unpleasant spikes. But these, I am told, are not deterrent to the man or beast who has once acquired the durian habit –– who, by complete suppression or mortification of the organs of smell, has succeeded in swallowing even a section of the fruit. It grows on tall trees, and natives will sit for days waiting for a ripening durian to drop. White children, once inoculated, prefer it to all other fruit; tigers will approach close to Malay villages, risking their lives to vary their carnivorous diet with a mouthful of durian. If simplicity in diction indicates strength, I will state tersely that the durian has an odor. In deference to passengers who are not durianivorous, Lascars are forbidden to bring the fruit on any tourist steamer. Yet if a stoker in the deepest coal-bunker has broken the rule and smuggled one on board, his brother on the lookout in the crow’s nest will soon know and become envious. With rotten eggs as a basis, if one adds sour milk and lusty Limburger cheese ad lib., an extremely unpleasant mixture may be produced. It quite fails, however, as an adequate simile to durian. The odor and taste of durian are unique, unparalleled, and they did not pass from my mind during my second Malaysian day. I am at a loss to explain why durian is not the favorite food of vultures and the exclusive preoccupation in life of burying beetles.< wildlife wealth Sarawak, there, other Malaysia’s investigate hope One eat. safe veggies, fruits different Chinese, Indian Malaysian, mix interesting good, food anticipated. better far accommodations modern, expectations. notions preconceived versus surprise> Overall this trip great fun, exciting and most satisfying as to birds and animals. I was able to add over 200 new birds to my life list and to revisit many others, in many cases giving even better views than ever. Then too, there were all sorts of other flyers & gliders, and even a few creepy-crawlies - here are a few to finish up with.